How to install railing on concrete porch
Category : How to install railing on concrete porch
Building a porch railing is a way to enclose your porch and prevent guests or small children from falling over the side. Most municipal codes require that a porch structure that is at least 3 feet off the ground must have rail enclosure built, at least 3 feet high.
Building a porch rail system is a task that is easy to do. You may require assistance with the building process but most home improvement centers have pre-cut and pre-made rail systems that are precut to code and only require installation. Select pre-formed porch rails and balusters.
How To Install Porch Railing
The balusters are the supports between the top and bottom rail. You will need to purchase enough 2 X 6 railing and 2 X 2 balusters to form the railing. A home improvement center or lumberyard maintains an inventory of these materials.
You may also choose to purchase pressure treated 2 X 6 lumber for the rails and 2 X 2 lumber that has been cut to size to form the balusters. Step 2: Assemble the Bottom Rails. Position the balusters into the bottom 2 X 6 rails and secure using galvanized screws. Hot-dipped galvanized screws are specially designed for outdoor use and will not rust or corrode because of exposure to weather.
This will prevent the wood from rotting away at the point where the screws were inserted. Use a drill to preset the holes for the screws and into each of the individual balusters.
Attach the balusters into the rail from the bottom. Step 3: Assemble the Top Rails. Position the top rail on top of the balusters and use galvanized nails to secure.
You will need to place two nails in each of the balusters from the top in order to secure the rail tightly. Use a level to make sure that the top and bottom rail are flush and level as you place the nails.
At the end of the rails, attach a 2 X 4 support brace. This brace will be attached to the posts in the front of the rail and the house on each of the side rails. Drill 2 pilot holes into the brace in order to place the lag bolts. Step 4: Secure the Rail to the Porch.
Place the rails into position on the porch. You should have assembled 3 porch rails, 1 for the front of the porch and 1 for each size. The rails will need to be fastened to the end posts on the porch and the house. Use the lag bolts and ratchet to secure the braces for each of the rails into the posts. Step 5: Paint. Once you have secured the rails to the house, apply paint to the rails and balusters. If you painted the wood before installation, sand out any rough spots and apply an additional coat of paint to the wood.
Allow the paint to dry and you are now ready to enjoy your porch rails. We welcome your comments and suggestions. All information is provided "AS IS. All rights reserved.A wood railing is usually built in sections that have a beginning and ending post for support. In concrete, these supports posts will each have a plate that has drilled bolt holes. You have to drill the concrete and then install these posts before installing the railing.
Be careful when drilling the concrete so you do not break or crack the material where the rail is going to be put in place. Follow these steps to install railing on concrete. Before you break out the tools, establish where you want your railing to go. Use a tape measure and chalk line to mark the places on the concrete where the railing will be built.
On your snap line, measure from the center of the support post to the center of the end support post on a section of your railing. When drilling the hole make sure it is as deep as the anchor bolt sleeve. When you have your bolt hole drilled you can place the sleeve in the hole. You can now stand up your first section of railing and line the holes of the anchor plate with the drilled holes.
Thread a bolt into the plate and sleeve and tighten it with a wrench. Continue with each section of the railing by bolting each section until you are at the end. Consider making a template out of cardboard. You can trace the bottom of the deck rail posts onto the cardboard and even mark the bolt holes. Enlist the help of a friend to hold some of the components in place while you drill and secure the posts in place. Make sure you know exactly where the deck rails are to be placed.
If they are put in the wrong area, the edges of the concrete might break, and then you will have to relocate the railing to a different area. Wear protective eyewear while you are drilling into the concrete to prevent bits of concrete from splashing upwards into your eyes.
Having a pad in place saves you time and money, and can provide a stable platform to build from, but it is imperative the posts get anchored solidly to the concrete with an interface to avoid wood rot, termites or other insect infestation, and lateral shifting and racking of the framework from seismic activity.
Find the exact center of the post location. Lay the bracket on the concrete and mark the center point of the bolt hole with a carpenter's pencil, keeping the bracket aligned square to the railing's direction. Blast out the hole with compressed air and remove as much dust and debris as possible, then use a circular wire brush to provide additional cleaning and blow it out again.
Repeat as necessary to provide a perfect fit for the bolt. Hold the bracket in place and set the bolt in the top of the hole, then hammer the anchor into the hole until it is just flush with the bottom plate. If the anchor does not grab when you start to tighten or if the hole is irregular or cracking occurs while drilling or hammering, inject the hole with two-part concrete epoxy, then re-hammer the anchor and clean off the overflow.
Wait until it sets before tightening the nut. Cut the post to length with the circular saw, subtracting the 1-inch standoff from the target length. Use the rafter angle square as a fence against the baseplate of the saw to keep the cut nice and square, then align the post into its final position. Nail or bolt it into the bracket, depending on the style of wood fastener the particular post bracket was designed for.
While the exact size and design of these brackets varies slightly depending on the manufacturer, securing them to the concrete in this manner will work consistently with all standoff-style post brackets for concrete.
Typically, for a four-by-four post, a set of two matching thru-bolts will provide the lateral hold you want for this type of fastener, but be sure to check the manufacturer's specifications for the hardware you purchase.
Hailing from Seattle, Steve Curry has been writing articles on a wide range of carpentry, residential remodeling and construction topics since Skip to main content. Tip Make sure to hold the hammer drill absolutely plumb to the surface of the concrete to insure the hole doesn't get drilled at an angle.
How to Replace Metal Porch Railings in Concrete
This error will transfer into the bracket and post. Be sure to double-check the post prior to securing it to the bracket, as it can be adjusted straight at this point in the procedure. Warning Always wear eye protection when cutting, drilling or hammering or while clearing the hole with the compressed air. This particular procedure is prone to a high occurrence of projectile debris.
The use of full goggles rather than safety glasses is highly recommended. About the Author Hailing from Seattle, Steve Curry has been writing articles on a wide range of carpentry, residential remodeling and construction topics since Customer Service Newsroom Contacts.Installing a custom vinyl porch railing on your veranda or deck is a smart and easy way to beautify your outdoor living space.
Follow these instructions to install a vinyl porch railing speedily. Standard heights for porch railings are 36 inches or 42 inches, so choose the height you desire first. You will also need to measure stairways if you intend to run handrails down the stairs for the correct stairway railing supports.
The minimum distance between support posts should be 12 inches. Make sure they are no more than 36 inches apart.
A porch railing to be mounted into concrete has longer support posts than a porch rail made for attaching to a wood floor base. Specify which you need when purchasing your supplies. Attach one end rail support post to the wall of the nearest building, with brackets just below the top rail level and just above the base rail.
Insert the steel post and clamp it to the deck. Drop the porch rail skirt over this base.
Installing an Aluminum Porch Railing in Concrete
Add the vinyl covering to the steel post. Insert the base rail for the balusters. Insert the number of balusters specified in the instructions, for various section lengths. Install the next support post, and snap the top guide rail over the balusters, then secure it to the support posts.
Continue setting up support posts and inserting baluster rails. Secure the final support post to the building wall as for the first support post. Use a steel post plate mounting system to attach your vinyl porch railing to a concrete floor. Attach the first post to the house wall with the mounting brackets, one near the top rail and one just above the baluster rail baseline.
Set the base plate under the post. Mark the spots where the four anchor bolts will hold each post. Put together the bolt with its securing nut on top of each hole. Set the steel post into the base plate. Drill the bolts through the base plate into the holes.
Put the porch rail skirt on the post, and wrap the vinyl outer post around it. Install the next support post, and attach the base rail for the balusters. Insert all the balusters for this section and secure the top rail by pressing it down tightly. Fasten the top rail to the second post, and continue.How to Install Railing with Base Plates
Make any necessary repairs to the floorboards or siding. If you're building a new home, paint the exterior and install the porch flooring before building the railing. Otherwise, you'll have to install the flooring around the railing posts, and the railing may get damaged in the process. Porch railings can be constructed from wood, metal, stone or synthetic materials. Your home style, climate and budget are the key factors in deciding which way to go. Wooden Railings Wood is a classic, relatively inexpensive choice that suits a wide range of home styles Image 1.
A simple picket railing works well for Georgian-style homes, while a more detailed, patchwork design complements Queen Anne Victorians. Craftsman bungalows often feature square patterns, as shown above. In general, more traditional homes should have railings with a greater level of detail compared to contemporary homes.
If you don't find the right style at your home supply store, go to a lumber yard and put in a custom order. It may not cost as much as you think, and "will add a lot to the curb appeal of your house," Demerly says.
He recommends using cedar rather than pressure-treated lumber. Cedar is much more stable. Unfortunately, wooden railings are not resistant to rot. If you live in a humid climate or an area where termites are present, it's best to consider other options. Metal Railings While not infallible, metal products are more resistant to decay Image 2.
Patterns range from fanciful to stark and should be selected based on the period of the home.
Picket-style iron railings enhance a historical look and are a good option for Georgian homes in climates not suited to wood. Synthetic Railings Synthetic railings include PVC and composite materials that blend wood particles with resin and vinyl Image 3. The surface can be colored and textured to resemble natural wood.
Synthetics tend to be more expensive than wood, but the benefits may be worth the cost — particularly in humid climates. It's maintenance free. Other than the price, the drawback to PVC or composite railings is that they come in a limited number of basic styles.
We receive a ton of emails from happy customers who have used our product to solve their railing troubles. We love seeing the value that our customers get from using our products and that they thoroughly enjoy the flexibility, ease of use, and durability that accompany our products.
A common problem our customers have are the need for a railing solution that can be easily added to the concrete steps outside their home or in their garage. Naturally, one of our most popular products for solving this problem is our Simple Rail handrail kits. These kits make it extremely easy to add a railing to already existing structures like a concrete wall or steps.
To show you just how simple these railings are to use, here's 15 customers who have used our railing solutions to help them conquer their concrete walls or steps. They look fantastic too! Looking to purchase a railing kit for your concrete steps? Browse our complete list of railing kits. Tedd needed a railing for the stairs in his garage. Here's what he had to say Just like in Tedd's case, Bob needed a railing for a small set of stairs in his garage. We were concerned that they might stumble on the steps and get injured.
Now building a simple handrail is even easier! Constructed with Kee Klamp fittings, Simple Rail handrails are durable and easy to install.
After meaning to install a railing outside on his front porch for some time now, Mike finally was able to find the time to install one.
He decided to use a Simple Rail handrail kit to suit his application. Mike appreciated the ease of use, sturdiness, and the excellent customer service he received. I don't have anywhere to push snow so a "simple rail" really suited my application I would like to commend Josh and Anthony for their help, they did a great job and were more than helpful!
Jim needed a railing for a series of concrete steps as he was concerned about safety. After searching online, he stumbled across Simplified Building and was able to find a solution that suited his situation perfectly. He was able to install a railing with minimal effort and appreciated that the handrail was easy to assemble. Jim described it as a "simple and clean installation". Stephen needed a railing that spanned 10 feet from his driveway to his patio.
He was able to add a railing on one side using a Simple Rail handrail kit. Stephen said it was a "very nice product, easy to work with and very sturdy.Josh surprisingly found himself as an English Literature major one day after planning on becoming a doctor for most of his life.
Small safety improvements such as installing a new wrought-iron hand rail in place of a deteriorated hand rail, or as a new addition, can provide a sense of security to you and your family.
Installation is not hard, though you will need what some do-it-yourselfers may consider specialized tools. But everything you need can be rented from your nearest tool-rental center. And after a quick trip to the hardware store, you will have everything you need to begin.
Mark the concrete where holes need to be drilled. Plug the drill in using an appropriately gauged extension cord. Pull the trigger on the drill to be sure there is power. Begin drilling each hole. Have two helpers eye the drill bit from degree angles to be sure the drill bit remains straight. Each person will need eye and ear protection.
Have one of your helpers vacuum away the dust and debris produced from the drilling periodically to keep the work area clear. After drilling the holes, vacuum all of the concrete dust out of the holes. Dry-fit the railing to see if the posts fit correctly. Make corrections if needed. Place the wrought-iron handrail back into the holes. Have your helpers keep the handrail plumb using a level as you use a caulking gun to fill the holes with the anchoring adhesive. Support the handrail as the adhesive dries and cures according to the drying instructions on the package.
Pin Share Tweet Share Email. Step 1. Step 2. Step 3. Step 4. Begin mixing the epoxy-based anchoring adhesive. Follow the mixing instructions on the package. Step 5. Warning Do not breathe concrete dust. Use a face mask if needed. Show Comments.