Category Archives: M52b25 vs m52b28 ecu

M52b25 vs m52b28 ecu

This is not a completely detailed workthough, more of a guide. So you wanna throw a baller engine in your E30?

There are some things you're gonna need to think about and research. First things first. You're going to spend a lot of money on this.

More than you plan to. You can ghetto rig the hell out of it and then it won't work or it'll be as reliable as a British car. There's not all bad news in this area though. There are a few different ways to do the swap that can cut some costs down and this will be discussed. This will change a lot of things later down the line so you have to decide this first.

The most rustic and old of the 24v motors. Dual Valve springs, no variable valve timing, and brick internals very similar to the M20's this makes them good and bad for a number of reasons but basically the least powerful of the bunch. M50TUB The most common of all 24v swaps. Again pretty bullet proof, updated electronics, valve train and internals. Also very cheap to find. Smidgen more powerful than the NV motor. This we will discuss later. Also they changed the oil filter housing to a plastic lid which sometimes isn't a big deal but is annoying when you look for a powersteering pump as they mount a little different.

You can spot the change by the flipped Front vs. Rear oil filler cap. Other changes are the lame M52 Manifold and attached parts, which I will also discuss later. S52B Mad Powa! Very similar parts to the M52 in a bunch of ways. So see all the poo I said for that engine. Differences include the Cams and displacement obviously.

Also runs OBD2.

m52b25 vs m52b28 ecu

Depending on which engine you chose you may have a choice or not. OBD1 vs. This changed BMWs a ton as they redesigned their engine line to compensate for the change. ECUs became a lot more complicated and thus so did tuning and wiring. So where to start? Well first off your motor came OBD2, so it would seem logical to keep it that way right?

Not so fast. So the new thing to do is have a tuner play with the ECU a little to make your life easier. Another little issue with OBD2 is they're chipless. Basically the biggest thing that needs to first be addressed to make your life easier is the EWS system which basically a security system that BMW began using as early as There is a chip in E36 key and on this chip is some crazy mystical code.

Other things you can have them "play" with are the secondary air pump system and evap system. Another issue with OBD2 is the O2 sensors… of which there are 4 of. Federal law requires I state you have to run all 4 of these…….The inline six-cylinder 2.

m52b25 vs m52b28 ecu

The M52 engine series replaced the Mseries. This engine, like M50 engines, got an aluminum cylinder block with Nikasil layer on cylinder walls. For the North American market, the M52B28 features a cast iron engine blocks instead of aluminum ones, and only BMW Z3 model got engines with an aluminum cylinder block. That decision was made due to high levels of sulfur in the US gasoline, which has a corrosive effect on Nikasil leading to fast wear.

Connecting rods are mm long. Aluminum pistons have a compression height of Those numbers allowed getting in result "square engine" The M52 2. The M52TU was released in It has some updates compare to the M52B.

Also, the engine got new pistons, connecting rods, electronic throttle body.

BMW E39 528 M52B28 + M50 intake Dyno test 230 hp & 285 nm Tuned on Siemens MS41 by RACEMODE

The M52B28 engine easily can be overheated. Any overheating will destroy a cylinder head. The engine has unreliable oil rings and consumes oil in large volume when they are really bad. The ECU will turn off the ignition for cylinders in which valves are not closed tight.

The M52B28 has a more complicated design. Its engine life is shorter than M50 engines. Some problems are common to all M52 engines. You can find detailed information about them in other Mseries engine reviews.

m52b25 vs m52b28 ecu

Engine Specs Manufacturer.It was firstly introduced in as an alternative to 2. The main difference between M52B25 and M52B28 is the fact that they have different crankshafts with lower stroke pistons and connecting rods. At the same time M52B25 differs from M50B25 with its block of cylinders which were replaced with aluminum ones which are lighter in comparison with cast iron cylinders.

M50B25 vs M52B28....?

At the same time connecting rods and pistons have also been replaced as well as intake manifold. Cylinder head was taken from M50 and from that moment variable valve timing system was used on all engines produced by BMW. In several changes and upgrades have been made.

The engine got its new name. Due to the fact that new engine turned out to be less powerful in comparison with M50B25, it was mainly used in BMW autos with index 23i. M52B25 — is a base modification of engine. Specifications are as follows: compression ratio — M52TUB25 — had renewed variable valve timing system.

Cylinder block got additional craft iron sleeves which were installed on other camshafts. As well as Series M50, M52 may have various problems including overheating. If you notice that motor is overheating, you should firstly check radiator and clean it in case of necessity. Also try to eliminate oxygen from the cooling system, examine pump, thermostat and radiator cap. High level of motor oil consumption.

The most common problem is the fact that piston ring wears out rather fast. This results in high level of oil consumption.

M52B25 Vs M52B28 Compact

The best way to prevent such problem is to change piston rings. If the problem still occurs you can also check crankcase gases ventilation valve. Problems with ignition can also occur rather often.

It results in low productivity of cylinders which are disabled by ECU. Regular replacement of hydraulic lifters will be a perfect solution to this problem. Oil light. If you face such problem you are supposed to check motor oil pump and oil filter housing. At the same time camshaft and crankshaft position sensor can sometimes be out of order.By HerbmiesterJune 29, in General Discussion.

I have been contemplating the M50b25TU vs the M52b The m50 has Kw at and Nm at The M52b25 has kw at and Nm at Obvious difference is the lower Kw number but the torque peak comes in at rpm lower. What I cant see is the torque area under the curve which I suspect is greater for the M The compression ratio of the engines is The M50 has a cast iron block and the M52 alloy. The exhaut manifolds on M52's appear to flow better on an M50 but I am unsure what the restrictions past this are, CAT's?

I am also unsure of head flow and valve sizes but I read somewhere that again they are similar. The M50BTU has mm rods so less side thrust. So where is the extra 16kw hiding? I am asking as I am considering an m52b25 E36 for 2k Cup and if there is some cheap free HP hiding somewhere I would like it. Yes I thought their would be exhaust side issues but as the car is destined for 2k cup I am rather limited as to what I can do on the exhaust.

As to the inlet I am not thinking about an m50 at this stage as any potetial increase in HP will need an accompanying remap to make it worthwhile. As it will be predominantly a track car the loss of torque vs gain in hp and revs needs further consideration, an extra 5 to rpm could be beneficial.

Note the red dyno line already had some intake work done upstream of the intake manifold which shifted peak power from 5, to 5, Used to be slow getting to the red line before this now hits the rev limiter frequently in second and easily gets there in third. Looks good but from what I understand there is no way I can get an m3 exhaust in on 2k cup rules. Yes agree I was thinking of a hybrid engine, the alloy block is a must from a weight cooling perspective.

Body shell is a toss up there is very little difference weight wise between the Coupe and Sedan and again nothing rigidity. The coupe looks infinitely better but there are some cheap is available. The other option is to get the is coupe body as they come stock with the bigger brakes and an LSD, albeit only a small case. I'd personally go with the earliest body you can find. My very early has no abs, ac, or electric windows, has the lightest heater matrix with no selectable recirculate.

The only issue would be getting it past scrutineering with an alloy block 6 cyl, brakes and vented rear rotors. They'll be none the wiser. Is this true? Imy not going to admit anything after I measure mine and fund you're pulling my leg.

No because I haven't dyno'd it since and the main reason for that is all the changes are a bit subtlethe next set of changes will bring them fully into play. You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account. Paste as plain text instead. Only 75 emoji are allowed. Display as a link instead. Clear editor. Upload or insert images from URL. General Discussion Search In. Reply to this topic Start new topic.Driftworks Forum. Just a quick one I've got an E36 ti compact.

Its getting a 6 cyl in the next few months I keep seeing full donor 's for stupid money and i'm trying to decide if a 2. Can anyone that's driven both a or compact or otherwise please let me know their thoughts and if its really worth the extra hassle and cost of finding a decent or better and cheaper to just chuck a 2.

The 5 Most Common BMW M52 Engine Problems

It will be a daily and occasional skidder. Cheers in advance guys. Hi man, well i own a ti compact and i have often driven a e36 i non compactso here you are my thoughts. It can go from to hp with small money, and with a diff and gear. B3AM3R Member. I aggree. It's basically the same engine. With an M50 manifold and a new map file it's already at stock B28 level of power.

But I think the Compakt is tailhappy enough as But 20bhp are 20bhp. Whats the price diffrence for you? Gaining 20bhp has a price too. Here is a shitty driver me on a completely stock ti, with only welded diff. Shitty coilovers, lots of weight, wrong big tires. Soon i'll post a video of a friend good driver on a fully modded compact with stock engine. Joined: Apr 10, Posts: 7, Likes Received: 1. Just go 2. Then as you add manifolds, remap etc Joined: Nov 5, Posts: Likes Received: 2.

Personally i would bye a 2. I have a m50b25tu in mine, chipped, 7. Miffy mate, the stock engine is actually a 2.Original Poster. Frances The Mute. Search My Stuff What's New 3 12 24 M50B25 vs M52B? E38Ross Original Poster 24, posts months.

I have done this conversion and wouldnt do it again as the gains are not noticable when you put the 2 cars side by side. Frances The Mute 1, posts months. Vixpy1 42, posts months. Can I sell it? Mr Dave 3, posts months. Adding an M20 flywheel will take things further agin for those who wish to do so.

The M20 fly would need a small portion machined off or you could use an M20 starter. Either way, the reduced weight will afford you a much more responsive throttle as well as less parasitic loss giving a small gain in headline power, too.

It livens up the M52 no end as it isn't as rev-happy as the M The M50 is a very revvy engine in comparison whilst the M52 relies on a very smooth and linear wave of torque to shift it along so they're quite different characters. I have a November BMWI read somewhere that the later 's like mine were pushing out a tad over bhp rather than ish in the 's to whenever they got the newer engine, is this correct? Obviously I benefit from the lighter m20 flywheel too. I am put the car on a dyno on Thursday so will upload a scan of the results.

I have also had the ECU remapped in order to make the most of the changes. In a car weighing a little over kgs performance is lively. Nothing wrong with a bit of comfort.

I'm right in the middle of my mid-life crisis though so just pretend I can't feel a thing. Arturas2k12 1 posts 18 months. Hello How Did you fit m50b25 intake to m52b28? Did you need some extra parts?The predecessor was the M50 engine and it was succeeded by the M54 in The M52 was primarily used in the E36 3-series and E39 5-series. Check out our M54 common engine problems post too!

Before digging into specific engine problems, lets talk overall reliability. The newest M52 is at least 20 years old now, and the oldest are considered classics.

With that being said, if you are planning on buying one of these, it is likely high mileage. Which means you should factor in some maintenance and repairs for general wear and tear items.

Overall, the internals of the engine are bulletproof. You should easily surpass the k mile mark without any valves, chain, rods, crank, or seal issues. While the engine and its internals can be beat to death, the supporting engine systems are what are likely to give you problems. The cooling system, including water pump, radiator, expansion tank, etc. The transmissions on these cars are also very strong and reliable, although you might start to experience some issues above the k mark.

Maintenance is key. Front brakes and rotors should be changed every 30k miles and the rears should be changed every 60k miles. The cooling system on the M52 seems to be the Achilles heel of these cars. The majority of radiator support parts are made of plastic on these cars, which means they are very prone to cracking and leaking. Radiator leaks are common and usually stem from the top radiator pipe and the thermostat housing.

Additionally, the coolant expansion tank is also made of plastic and is prone to cracking and leaking. If your engine is overheating, pull over and have it towed to a shop! Continuing to drive on an overheated engine can result in warping the head or internals, requiring a full engine replacement.

The M52 water pump uses a plastic impeller, which is the piece that flows the coolant through the engine. The plastic impeller commonly breaks from normal wear and tear and can cause you water pump to stop functioning.

The water pump typically goes out every 80kk miles. If you want to replace this once and be done with it, get the high-flow pump with stainless impeller. If you want to save a few bucks but maybe have to replace this more than once, go the cheaper route. The idle control valve on the M52 picks up dust and dirt over time which can result in it no longer functioning properly. This valve is self-explanatory, it controls car idle by regulating air to fuel ratios at idle.

A bad valve will result in irregular and rough idling. Some other similar symptoms are hunting, stalling, and sputtering. The repair here is rather simple. All you need to do is remove your idle control valve, which is connected to the intake. I say simple, but the ICV is sort of a pain to access and remove. BMW valve covers are infamously made of plastic they are on most other cars too.

Because they are made of plastic in a high heat area, they are prone to cracking over time from sustained heat. Even the smallest crack can result in an oil leak. Additionally, the valve cover gaskets frequently cause oil leaks from normal wear and tear, as they are made of rubber.

First step in repairing this is determining whether it is a cracked cover, or just an old gasket. Hopefully just the gasket.



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Mazutaur

22.10.2020 at 10:12 pm

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